Women's Collection Lines
08 September 2008
Thoughts and pictures from the Japan Fashion Week collection show on September 4, 2008
Japan Fashion Week
September 4, 2008

Women have bodies? If it weren't for G.V.G.V., we may have all forgotten about the idea of "curves" during the week of Tokyo Collection.

On Thursday night, designer Mug played to an incredibly packed house at Ebisu Garden Hall and gave her audience a sexy and futuristic collection of bold '80s dresses for the modern woman.

Wait, maybe "woman" is an understatement: G.V.G.V. evidently designs for the superwoman. The skyscraping models helped, but the cut of the clothing — vertical lines, high-waists, long zippers — further emphasized height and power. The elongated double-breasted suit jacket dress did this in CEO chic, while the cutaway generalissmo's jacket indulged in a battleground Napoleon fantasy. The tension between classic norms of feminine sexuality and masculine domination also found a good medium in some light S&M references, like stiff collars attached to belts and multiple mini corset ties.

Otherwise, the colors performed well with the angular tailoring, a palette somewhere between 1980s issues of Vogue and experimental Futurist clothing design from Giacomo Balla back in the early 20th century. Pinks and teals and bright blues came in strong solids, marked off from black in heavy contrast. The slightly-Egyptian and African patterns were also nice, perhaps melding Cleopatra into the overall queenly assault.

— W. David Marx

(Click on Photo Gallery button at left to view original photography by Sean Wood.)