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everlasting sprout - JFW '09 SS

Women's Collection Lines
07 September 2008
Introduction
Thoughts and pictures from the Japan Fashion Week collection show on September 3, 2008
Keywords:
Japan Fashion Week
everlasting sprout
"Chromoluminist"
September 3, 2008

Japan's unbearable summer heat zaps the energy of most Tokyo residents, but the torridity seems to have been a guiding light for everlasting sprout's Noriko Seki and Keiichi Muramatsu. The design team found a spiritual power in summer incandesce — a broad awakening channeled into a specific homage to Georges Seurat's scientific approach to color.

As the music bounced from a live saxophonist ripping out cacophonic free jazz to Patti Smith spoken word, the Seurat showed up literally in pajamas, tights, and a Princess Leia dress, based on the French post-Impressionist's more pastel-toned paintings (with small prints of "summer gods" like crawfish and Centaurus also intervening). But the dots and color soon broke free from pure historicism and dramatically burst into high-impact patterns and knits. Seki and Muramatsu got a nice scarf and sweater from off-the-air UHF bands of prismatic static. Another stand-out print pattern looked like a cross-section of sedimentary rainbow rock.

everlasting sprout's signature look revolves around slightly-grandmotherly knits and lace, and this show was no let down. Rather than full-blown sweaters, however, the brand went for a few bibs, vests, and cardigans featuring a spring green. The knits stayed loose, always as a part of larger styling rather than as dominant pieces.

While the serious high-color concept piloted the collection into innovative shapes and arrangements, the designer duo should be feted for their humor as well. A shapeless white dress came with a large print of a satiric hourglass figure. And the final sombrero wire skirts were a great finisher, taking everlasting sprout's aesthetic even deeper down the rabbit-hole.

— W. David Marx

(Click on Photo Gallery button at left to view original photography by Sean Wood.)