everlasting sprout - JFW '09 SS

Women's Collection Lines
07 September 2008
Thoughts and pictures from the Japan Fashion Week collection show on September 3, 2008
Japan Fashion Week
everlasting sprout
September 3, 2008

Japan's unbearable summer heat zaps the energy of most Tokyo residents, but the torridity seems to have been a guiding light for everlasting sprout's Noriko Seki and Keiichi Muramatsu. The design team found a spiritual power in summer incandesce — a broad awakening channeled into a specific homage to Georges Seurat's scientific approach to color.

As the music bounced from a live saxophonist ripping out cacophonic free jazz to Patti Smith spoken word, the Seurat showed up literally in pajamas, tights, and a Princess Leia dress, based on the French post-Impressionist's more pastel-toned paintings (with small prints of "summer gods" like crawfish and Centaurus also intervening). But the dots and color soon broke free from pure historicism and dramatically burst into high-impact patterns and knits. Seki and Muramatsu got a nice scarf and sweater from off-the-air UHF bands of prismatic static. Another stand-out print pattern looked like a cross-section of sedimentary rainbow rock.

everlasting sprout's signature look revolves around slightly-grandmotherly knits and lace, and this show was no let down. Rather than full-blown sweaters, however, the brand went for a few bibs, vests, and cardigans featuring a spring green. The knits stayed loose, always as a part of larger styling rather than as dominant pieces.

While the serious high-color concept piloted the collection into innovative shapes and arrangements, the designer duo should be feted for their humor as well. A shapeless white dress came with a large print of a satiric hourglass figure. And the final sombrero wire skirts were a great finisher, taking everlasting sprout's aesthetic even deeper down the rabbit-hole.

— W. David Marx

(Click on Photo Gallery button at left to view original photography by Sean Wood.)