Aguri Sagimori - JFW '09 SS

Women's Collection Lines
07 September 2008
Thoughts and pictures from the Japan Fashion Week collection show on September 2, 2008
Japan Fashion Week
Aguri Sagimori
”words and clothes"
September 2, 2008

At the precocious age of 23, Aguri Sagimori has already established herself as an important new Japanese designer. "words and clothes" — her second-ever JFW collection — introduced very sophisticated dresses, suits, and tops sure to win admirers from a serious female clientele.

The color palette was extremely reserved, mostly shades of grey bouncing between poles of white and black. Less color came in handy though by emphasizing Sagimori's determined exercises in cuts, styling, and prints.

In direct expression of the "words and clothes" theme, many of Sagimori's blouses featured tear-stained Japanese calligraphy writing out phrases "to forgive" and "the me that you love." More impressively, the textured gray material of a long dress turned out to be an original jacquard printed with sentences from a novel. Transparent pieces like a white silk organdy shirt allowed an elegant layering of words on words.

Through her cuts, Sagimori rebutted all geometrical assumptions about elegance without damaging the clothes' adaptability to office and formal occasions. While the narrow shoulders and thin lapels of her suit jackets established a piercing and powerful femininity, asymmetry was the more pronounced trait. A key dress had a short front and long back. A sleeveless blouse was long on one lateral side. A jacket featured an extra left-side lapel and button. A white top cut away and carried down to the knee on the right side, while its left strap panel folded down to reveal black piping.

The most interesting piece of Sagimori's collection, however, was an almost palindromic suit jacket with open vents in the back, styled with a backwards cross around the model's neck. (Due to the nature of the JFW photographer placement, we regret not being able to capture the full glamour of this piece in our photos.)

— W. David Marx

(Click on Photo Gallery button at left to view original photography by Sean Wood.)