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Mikio Sakabe - JFW '09 SS

Women's Collection Lines
03 September 2008
Introduction
Thoughts and pictures from the Japan Fashion Week collection show on September 1, 2008
Keywords:
Japan Fashion Week
Mikio Sakabe
"Miminari" ("the ringing in your ears")
September 1, 2008

Mikio Sakabe's futuristic and socially-critical autumn/winter collection was one of the most talked-about shows at March's JFW. For spring/summer '09, Sakabe and partner Jen-Fang Shueh took their newly-blond "industrial dolls" on a Hawaiian cruise for a pageant of sun-baked retro-futurism.

The materials stayed light and silky throughout, with sci-fi accessories like ribbed silver leggings picking up a subtle interwoven luminescence. Colors were generally muted pastels as if the shifting reflected chromatics of mother-of-pearl. China dresses featured intricate iridescent bead work on the skirt and collars. Big bows and classic suit patterns kept consistent with the brand's previous conceptions of Japan's perpetual 1950s-era "proper" femininity. But instead of just updating office wear with extreme highlights like last season, the designers twisted items like a long shawl-collar jacket into a new option for beachside Tiki parties. Microchip map lines marked a nice series of front zipper dresses, while sleeveless parkas and Bahas imagined a beach resort from a Disneyland prediction of the 22nd century.

Mikio Sakabe's robotic housewives are solar-powered, we learned, but they still pack a mighty elegance while out on vacation.

— W. David Marx

(Click on Photo Gallery button at left to view original photography by Sean Wood.)