Hisui - JFW '08 AW

Women's Collection Lines
01 April 2008
Thoughts and pictures from the collection show
March 12, 2008

At the adjunct JFW location in front of Shinjuku's Takashimaya department store, designer Hiroko Ito showed her other-worldly Hisui colleciton. The word "hisui" can mean either "jade" or the bird "kingfisher" in Japanese, but neither definition gives a clue to the Byzantine folds, wraps, and colors that defined the pieces.

Possibly taking a cue from the uniquely-Japanese form of over-laying seen in Harajuku, the amorphous piles of colorful knits, anarchic patterns, zany patchworks, and mesh wools practically left no skin open to public viewing. The collection imagined a world where turbans were available for the entire body. Later monochromatic pieces played with material properties by taking a translucent silk and twisting it into thick leaden knots with serious mass.

The rainbow-striped knits boiled down the wilder aesthetics to something accessible, but later, these ensembles looked as if the extraterrestrial arts-and-crafts of Forcefield had come alive and were romping around Shinjuku.

(Click on Photo Gallery button at left to view original photography of the show.)