Everlasting Sprout - JFW '08 AW

Women's Collection Lines
01 April 2008
Thoughts and pictures from the collection show
Japan Fashion Week
Everlasting Sprout
March 12, 2008

A church bell rings out? Again? Like Kawashima Chinami, Everlasting Sprout also channeled the "Gothic" spirit for its A/W 2008 collection, with a show all about "Gargoyles." Before the models appeared, two performers mounted the stage in grotesque fashion-gargoyle costumes and white faces, monstrously moving down the catwalk at a pace of super-human sloth.

Despite the abject darkness implied by this artistic setting, the collection was surprisingly colorful. Stoles, shirts, and scarves beamed a beautifully-variegated stain-glass window pattern. This stain-glass pattern then abstracted and amplified into rainbow-striped wool overalls and mesh shirts. Diagonally-cut cable-knit wool shorts came in bright pink.

Otherwise, the pieces — like overly complex sweaters and deconstructed argyle patterns on leggings — suggested more of a challenge to static fashion concepts rather than to the glory of Heavenly angels. As the collection proceeded, the "gargoyle" theme shifted from a simple call-back to gothic aesthetics and moved to emphasize the architectural functionality of those famed stone monsters. A grey wool jacket employed straps to hold up voluminous sleeves, while in other pieces, brighter cloth floated above the base material of shirts in ornamental space shifting. Within this architectural framework, the softness of the fabrics soon began to resemble metamorphic stone and other building materials.

(Click on Photo Gallery button at left to view original photography of the show.)